Rock Climbing

Tour de Bloc 5

nobody@vox.com(Obsidian) — Fri, 12 Oct 2007 21:53:06 -0700

The Tour de Bloc is Canada's national competitive climbing circuit now in it's 5th season. Looks like fun, can't wait.

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Pipelines (Warning: a little heavy on the climbing talk)

nobody@vox.com(CliffhangerB) — Sat, 04 Aug 2007 06:17:13 -0700

Myself and James went bouldering this morning with a few of the "Young Guns" (Chris, Mike and John).

First time visit for me to a place called the Pipelines out at Glen Forest <Google Map Link>, basically named because there are several large pipelines that run through the reserve carrying water up north to places like Kalgoorlie.

It was a bit of a trek in, plus no real clear path up to the boulders but we managed to bash our ways through with tracker James leading the way.

Our first stop was an overhanging boulder with a V4 problem called Party Time, a hang start that forces you to get your left hand into a narrow gap, twist your body right so that you can get your left hand up and then throw right, heelhook, crossover with the hands to match and then reach around with the right for an open hand grip and then pop again with the right for the top.

Haven't really had a lot of experience grading boulder problems but it definitely seemed within my capabilities, the only concern was one area that you were likely to smack into a nearby boulder if you came off. So spotters were definitely good to have even if they weren't used. Anyways managed to tick it on my second attempt.

We then had a look at a V6 called Secret Government Ninja Moves, basically a hang start, right leg way up for a heel hook, left hand to an intermediate open hand hold, then the crux a pretty big throw left around the corner to a not so great hold before finishing up with almost the same ending as Party Time. We got close, but after quite a few attempts decided to leave it for another day, the crux was starting to take a bit of skin off. :P

We wanderred over to another V4 (unsure about the name), which was more of a slab, basically a shallow right hand uncomfortable crimper high, left hand on a side pull, get right foot up to a little nick of a hold, throw left hand way up and deep to a shallow ridge, right foot up onto another crystal, right hand up to a small edge and then a left pinch and worm your way up to the top out. Took a couple of goes but got it in the end.

Our last stop was the Grinch a V5, hands wide apart on an overhanging section, left hand on an upper hold, right hand on a good edge, right foot flagged out on the right and left foot on a smear down the bottom. Pop up to a sloper with the left, throw with the right for a open hand hold, pop up again with the right for a slightly better hold, get the right foot up, left hand to a pinch and then throw the right to a nothing ridge and get the left up to a good edge before working the feet up and topping out. Got close and reckon it's do-able, but the fingers had said enough by that stage. Got a bit of footage of Chris finishing it which I'll have to clean up and then post.

Chris on Grinch V5

GD bar

It was a pretty good day, we spent several hours out there and started to head out just after 3 PM. My stomach was grumbling on the walk out - one Growling Dog protein bar does not make a substantial lunch. :(

Fingers were pretty raw after finally getting back out on real rock again. Plus have all these little cuts and scratches from bush bashing.

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Vox Hunt: Check Out These Shoes

nobody@vox.com(CliffhangerB) — Mon, 27 Aug 2007 08:54:01 -0700

Show us your favorite pair of shoes.
Submitted by ♥Retro.

Anasazi - Five.Ten

Anasazi's by Five.Ten

Have two pairs of them and trust them with my life.

Not sure if they've molded to the shape of my feet or vice versa, but when I slip them on they rock!

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5.11d

nobody@vox.com(Obsidian) — Mon, 27 Aug 2007 11:37:18 -0700

Went climbing last night and finished the 5.11d chimney. Woot!

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Speed Climb

nobody@vox.com(Obsidian) — Thu, 26 Jul 2007 18:22:16 -0700

Very tired today after doing a bunch of 5.10d's and finished off with a 210-foot speed climb on a 5.7.

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Finally!!!

nobody@vox.com(CliffhangerB) — Mon, 04 Jun 2007 03:13:47 -0700

Black Diamond Chalkboy

Thanks to Arty, I've managed to finally secure a Black Diamond Chalkboy and not only that but by chance it was a red one instead of the limey yellow green one. Filled it up with some chalkballs and a fair bit of loose chalk and oh it was a joy. :D

For all those non-climbers they probably won't get it, but this baby is great for bouldering basically you can stick both hands in and get them completely covered in chalk rather than fumble with around with a small chalkbag. Plus it has a handy pocket for keys, phone, etc, along with a mesh compartment for shoes (looks a smidge small so will probably use that for the phone instead), and even a little holder for the brush. Psyched!

The other dream bit of gear I was after was also acquired at the same time, a Black Diamond Drop Zone crash pad. Basically it's a slab of high quality foam (104cm x 122cm x 9cm) with a burly cover over it, it has backpack straps incorporated with the design (after all it is 4.5 Kg along with a gear pocket in the side flap. An essential bit of outdoor bouldering gear to literally save my arse. :P

I love my toys. :D Of course it means that my credit card bill is going to be pretty nasty this month, so will have to cut down on the big nights out. :P

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Best Weekend, evar

nobody@vox.com(ydnar) — Mon, 28 May 2007 23:16:00 -0700

Pirates of the Caribbean: At World's End

On Friday night, Tina and I went to go see the new Pirates of Caribbean movie.

Saturday, woke up at 6 am to go climbing at Castle Rock with Chris and a crew of people from the Bay Area Outdoor Adventure Club. Dinner & drinks at Suppenkuche, then fell dead asleep. Sue hooked me up with a sweet T-shirt, too.

On Sunday, Tina and I went to Kara’s Cupcakes in the Marina, then to Marin to go hunting for bicycles, jerseys and planters. Went to the Ducati dealership too. Dealt with a parking douchebag in Mill Valley and took Pista to the dogrun. Watched a documentary on Fred Phelps, and slept well (again).

On Monday, woke up ad took Pista to the dogpark. Rode my fixie to Mill Valley for the Memorial Day parade & pancake breakfast. Went to a barbecue at Chris’ house, drank divine wasabi bloody marys, and ate awesome cookies and burgers. Then went sofa shopping with the crew and returned home for some dinner & watched the Lost season finale.

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Great Falls Last weekend

nobody@vox.com(Will) — Thu, 26 Apr 2007 20:48:03 -0700

I went to great falls, Virgina with my girlfriend and co-worker Sean last weekend. Here are the pictures.

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Climbing Grades

nobody@vox.com(CliffhangerB) — Mon, 26 Mar 2007 04:14:45 -0700

Thought it might be useful to put up a comparison of the grading systems used across the world, well the main sport climbing ones anyways:

USA French Australian

5.2	1
5.3	2	11
5.4	3	12
5.5	4
5.6	5a	13
5.7	5b	14
		15
5.8	5c	16
5.9	6a	17
5.10a	6a+	18
5.10b		19
5.10c	6b	20
5.10d	6b+	21
5.11a	6c	22
5.11b	6c+	23
5.11c	7a	24
5.11d	7a+	25
5.12a	7b	26
5.12b	7b+
5.12c	7c	27
5.12d	7c+	28
5.13a	8a	29
5.13b
5.13c	8a+	30
5.13d	8b	31
5.14a	8b+	32
5.14b
5.14c	8c	33
5.14d	9a
5.15a	9a+

French system for sport routes. For more comprehensive articles there's a decent Wiki that someone has done at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grade_(climbing)

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5.10d

nobody@vox.com(Obsidian) — Tue, 06 Mar 2007 09:47:33 -0800

Went climbing yesterday with Karl and there was this 60-foot 5.10d that I decided to try just for the heck of it. 5.10a's and b's are the climbs that I am usually pretty comfortable with. I thought that if I could get up at least part of the way the 5.10d, I would be happy. After much effort on narrow fingertip grips and a few falls, I managed to make it all the way up. My fingertips still hurt, but I feel good.

I also brought my wheel over to Duke's to get trued. Hopefully this solves the problems I've been having with the trainer.

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